You have that Tuscan image imprinted in your mind. You know the one I’m talking about. The iconic Tuscan imagery: A window with two cypress trees framing either side looking out for miles over rolling hills and vineyards. Well, you can experience that – just 1 hour outside of Florence in the region of Chianti, where stone farmhouses, green hills and unbounded vineyards and olive and cypress groves are abound haunted by the ghosts of Dante and Boccaccio (more on the latter in a second…). If Pat and I are going to travel across the world, we want to feel like we’ve gone somewhere different, somewhere unique. We want to stay in a historic and humble stay like Pensione di Vignamaggio that dates back to the 1500s, while eating local yogurt accompanied by their homemade cakes and pies made with their estate flour, olive oil, and wine, served by locals. As Pat and I wound through the rolling hills of Chianti under a bright cerulean sky, we were drawn to the mountain vineyards we passed by. I pointed up to the village of Panzano in Chianti and rolled my window down for a better view.
The medieval village, located halfway between Florence and Siena and a stone’s throw away from the quaint village of San Gimignano, was punctuated with towers and Roman architecture overlooking the verdant valley below. The bell tower and church on the hilltop rang out the hour as we arrived. We pulled up to a piazza surrounded by small shops and businesses, cobblestoned walkways going up and down the narrow streets, and a fountain where a few locals were sitting around the small wall surrounding it, enjoying some vino or gelato. I smiled. It was gorgeous, it was quaint, it was intimate and small. It could be a setting for a film. Our hotel, Pensione di Vignamaggio, built in Tuscan tradition was in the center of this piazza. It was a mix of old and new – an old restored farmhouse with yellow soft washed walls mixed with stone.
As we walked into the room, the first thing I noticed were the iconic cypress trees framing the windows. Olive trees were swaying in the warm afternoon breeze. Pigeons sang in the canopy of trees towering above us and lacy flowers scented the air (enough to trigger Patrick’s allergies!). Remember to pack nasal spray or stop by a farmacia, or local pharmacy, to buy some. A gentle breeze flung open the window, bringing in the scents of rich greenery, grapes, and flowers inside. The smell of the Tuscan hills was wrapping itself around me. Welcoming me to Pensione di Vignamaggio.
The entire property is inspired by Giovanni Boccaccio’s Decameron, a famous Tuscan writer and poet of the 14th century. You will see odes and hints of the Decameron placed throughout the hotel. The 19 rooms of the hotel symbolize 19 of the tales around the theme of love and romance in the 100 tale Decameron. If you couldn’t think of how to make the already romantic Tuscan hills be even more romantic, leave it up to Pensione di Vignamaggio. Bring to life the love stories from the Decameron and you’ll fall utterly in love with the Pensione and Panzano in Chianti.
We took in the warm and welcoming interior. White wooden beams supported the high ceiling, smooth terracotta tiles gleamed underfoot, and pink walls, writings, and icons, added a unique touch to every angle of the room. The bed was covered in a splash of yellow. I couldn’t have asked for a more enchanting room.
Patrick was exhausted from the journey from Greenwich, CT to Chianti, while I felt recharged. While Patrick decided to take a quick nap, I freshened up. After showering I noticed the soaps were made of olive oil, so in line with the rest of the the stunning surroundings. Pensione di Vignamaggio puts so much attention into their toiletries. They are truly an essential part of the hotel experience, washing away any sign or trace of post-flight and travels you may have left on you. You feel like you’ve undergone a rebirth after bathing in the top quality selected skin products and cosmetics inspired by the scents of their woods and gardens. I put on my bathing suit and gazed around the room. It was as if we had stepped back in time to a simpler way of life.
I trailed my fingers along the velvety orange and purple couch. Everything in the room was made with purpose. Excerpts of the Decameron were imprinted on the walls and illustrated icons around the room recounted the tale that our room was based on. Vignamaggio’s signature yet subtle diffuser in a carafe of water filled the room. Birdsong trilled from the open window, a sound that I came to love. Locals however noted you could quickly come to be annoyed by when it’s still going on at sunrise!
Once Pat woke up, we stepped outside and made our way down to the pool. There was an outdoor courtyard just outside our room. Blue shutters framed the tall windows. Unlike the city, there were no cars zipping past and no garbage trucks rumbling about. This was going to be a quiet, pastoral getaway for Pat and I. If you want 24-hour room service and the world at your fingertips, this place is not for you. The rooms are blessedly free of modern conveniences like TVs. The only luxuries here are the minibar, phone, and wi-fi.
We enjoyed some complimentary Vignamaggio vino, or wine, (well…Pat did, I was pregnant at this time) and brought it down to the pool area. Pensione di Vignamaggio has a wine system that works with a keycard where you can try any of their in-house vini. As we walked down we passed by the flowers and herb garden as well as the complimentary bikes offered to guests at the property. Although, be warned, the bikes aren’t electric and with all the hills, it isn’t for the faint of heart, so perhaps stay nearby.
The pool is inviting, and you won’t want to miss taking a stroll down there. Breathtaking views of rolling hills and Panzano in Chianti are also a feature of this bean-shaped pool, which beckons us to bask in the Tuscan sun. We lounged, went for a dip, recovered from our trip in, and chatted as the sunset cast that unique Tuscan glow over the lush landscape.
After a quick shower, we whizzed by the stunning communal areas of Pensione di Vignamaggio and made our way out to dinner. Panzano is to all intents and purposes the heart of Chianti. A village where less than 1000 people live but where the whole world passes through, to explore the area, yes, but also to eat from the famous “poets of steak” — Dario Cecchini at his restaurant Officina. Dinner was, as always in Italy, a delight and a show. We emerged 3 hours later. You could have rolled us back down to Pensione di Vignamaggio located right across the street.
The next morning, I woke up earlier than Pat and waited for him in the breakfast area. I walked up to the stone terrace with a pergola with various tables and benches available for guests. A broad swath of hills waved beneath the hilltop perch, while mountains rose in the distance. Vineyards dotted the landscape below. I peered over the terrace edge. A sprinkling of purple and white wildflowers dotted the hillside. I sat on the yellow bench, took out my laptop, and finished up a blog article while looking out over the rolling hills and quiet landscape. A black cat sat up next to me on the bench asking for cuddles. None from me, sorry kitty! A smile spread on my face. It felt so free here.
Once Pat woke up, I finally got what I’d been waiting for…breakfast! Every morning at Pensione di Vignamaggio is a spread of freshly made whatever they have that day. Every morning we got fresh fruit and homemade yogurt from a farm nearby with granola (amazing…). The first day it was accompanied by a typical Tuscan breakfast pastry called budino di riso, or rice pudding. It was like a pastry filled with custard and rice. Alongside came a freshly squeezed juice, a croissant, some cheeses and prosciutto, and some fresh bread with some local jams. A true breakfast for those looking to take on the day. Finish it off with an order of Cappucci, very well made if I may so myself, and my morning was already off to an amazing start.
On day 2, we did a tour of the Vignamaggio’s wedding venue Il Borgo di Vignamaggio, headed to Greve in Chianti’s morning market, and explored San Gimignano. There I had a wonderful tortelli di carciofi con tartufo fresco (artichoke tortelli with fresh truffle). But food is just one of the reasons Tuscany beckons (although their bread is not one of them for me!). There’s also hot springs, hamlets, and castles, the Tuscan seaside, and more that we would come to discover in the coming days.
After what seemed like only moments later, we were back in Panzano in Chianti for dinner at Ristorante Oltre il Giardino. The garden is stunning, the views are breathtaking, the service is surly, and the food is…well, incredible. The tagliatelle con cinghiale, or wild boar, here is a must. The pasta is so fresh and the meat so light, don’t risk trying anything else.
On our last morning at Pensione di Vignamaggio, I woke up at sunrise from the jetlag. I stood up in bed and looked out at the cypress trees framing the window. Did I actually wake up from my sleep or was I still dreaming? It just looked so perfect and unreal. I did some morning yoga while watching the sunset, then wrote a bit more on my blog while waiting for Pat to wake up. I was saddened to be leaving this sight for sore eyes…we should’ve booked a whole week in this area.
Breakfast was again, one word: incredible. They used leftover croissants and pastries to make some sort of delicious concoction that tasted like a torta paesana, or cake made in town using leftovers. We took in the view before heading out the doors to the Sunday morning market that was right outside the hotel doorstep. We walked through the piazza saying goodbye to the small, quaint, yet memory filled town of Panzano in Chianti.
The moral of this story? Leave Florence and room service behind. You may not get ice in your Coke or be the first to know the latest news, but you’ll never forget that you’re NOT at home. You’re in Italy. More so in Tuscany at Pensione di Vignamaggio, which is precisely the point.
Rooms start at around ~$250 per night.
